McCardell, 1923 in costume designs. u From 1923-25,

McCardell, Claire    Mandeep KaurStudent id – 0710997Course Code – FAS-104GDate- 18 January, 2018 Backgroundu American fashion designer.u Born in May 24, 1905.

u Died on March 22, 1958.u Oldest of four children born to Eleanor and AdrianMcCardell.u She married to Irving D. Harris who was taxes born architectand he also had two children from an early marriage.u She is credited with the creation of AmericanSportswear.u McCardell, Claire’s life period was difficult and herwork were cut short by a diagnosis of colon cancer in 1957.

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  Education u Graduated from Parson and get certificate in 1923 incostume designs.u From 1923-25, She joined Hood College, Maryland u After 2 years of study, she moved to New York and enrolledin Parsons at New York School of Fine Applied Art.u She attended Parsons School of Design, New York andParis Between 1926-29.

  Work Experiences and designs u Aftergraduating, she start working at a fashionable dress shops as an odd sketchingwork, flower paintings on paper lamp shades. She acting as a fit model for B.Altman before meeting Robert Turk.u In1930, she began working as an assistant designer for Robert Turk.

u RobertTurk bought McCardell, Claire with him while moving to larger company, TownleyFrocks.u Duringthe 1930s, the innovation shows like spaghetti string ties, sashes were beganas well as menswear details would became a part of her signature.u In theyear of 1938, McCardell, Claire introduced a bias- cut tentlike dress which wascalled as ‘Monastic Dress’.u The lookof ‘Monastic Dress’ was different which include no seamed waist as well as ithangs loosely, moreover it was designed properly having belt that hugged awomen’s curve gracefully and adds the beauty to her dress.u The dresswas exclusively sold for $29.95 as well as it was sold out in a day. The amountof selling was huge at the time so ‘Monastic Dress’ was copied in a wide range.

On the other hand, the price of trying to stop knock- offs drive Townley Frocksout of business.u Afterthe closure of Townley Frocks, Hattie Carnegie hired McCardell, Claire to workfor their designs that was famed dressmaking firm, but the work for theirdesigns were not gain much success as working as Carnegie’s clients, who weresearching of more elaborating merchandise. The work with Carnegie may notsuccess but with his company McCardell, Claire met Diana Vreeland who wouldbecame a lifelong friend and champion of McCardell, Claire.u In 1940,before leaving Carnegie McCardell, Claire attended her last Parisian fashionshow, preferring from then on to avoid French Revolution on her clothing.u In SecondWorld War, the availability of some material was stopped. So, McCardell, Claireflourished under such restrictions. But it was the luck that McCardell, Clairewas working with fabrics like denim, calico and wool jersey that were easilyavailable during the Second World War.

u McCardell,Claire popularized the ballet flat when responding to the shortage of leather,so to produce a wide range of ballet flats to match her designs by commissionedCapezio. u In1942, she created ‘Popover Dress’. u This dress was a response to a Harper’sBazaar challenge to create something different and special as well asfashionable you could wear to clean the house and then wear to cocktail party. u The ‘Popover Dress’ sold for $6.95 aswell as over 75,000 were sold in the first season alone. The ‘Popover Dress’ receiveda citation from the American Fashion Critics Association u Shewon a Coty Award in the year of 1943.    Influences and their designs u  She was thefirst designer who bring us thin strapped evening gowns, zippers as well asballet flats.u Included simple and mix-match sportswear.

u Her influence in Townley also increases.u She became a partner in the company in 1952.u She got a women of the year Award from the Women’sNational Press Club.u In 1990, the Life Magazine named McCardell, Claire oneof the hundred most important Americans of the twentieth century.

u A year later, she was inducted into the Maryland Women’sHall of Fame.u Some fashion designers such as Isaac Mizrahi, NormaKamali, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein etc. they all are influenced by theMcCardell, Claire.u McCardell, Claire’s styles, innovations and influenceson her fashion are as follow;u For evening wear, McCardell, Claire used jersey,calico, cotton voiles as well as rayon and calico, seersucker.u McCardell, Claire gave preference to utilize the easyand accessible fasteners in clothing like from zippers, to toggles and to rope.u McCardell, Claire used the idea of separates in the colorsthat were coordinated as well as creating the endless configurations which wasrevolutionary due to its economy and practicality.u In the year of 1956, she wrote a book ‘What Shall IWear’ which became popular.



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