ENSURING THAT THE DRAWING CLEARLY SHOWS THE VISUAL EFFECTS AT KEY
To ensure final storyboarding we can refine finalize the Key
stages using Photoshop
Creating Storyboarding in Photoshop
A storyboard is a set of pictures organized and laid out so they
tell a story. You can use an Adobe Photoshop template to place photos on and
create your own storyboard. The key to a good storyboard is making sure the
pictures are centered on the page and equidistant from each other. Photoshop’s
Guides application will help you. You will need math along with artistic skills
to create a good storyboard.
Go to the File menu in Photoshop and select New. In the New box,
choose a name for the document and select Custom from the Preset drop box.
Input the width and height you want the storyboard to be, as well as the
resolution (300 is good), and choose the color of the background contents.
Import into Photoshop the photos you will use. Make sure the
photos have the same resolution as the template you just created, and know the
size of each photo. Crop them as you see fit.
Go to the View menu and select New Guides. This application lets
you create guiding lines to help center the photos on your template.
Create horizontal guides to help center the photos vertically.
Subtract your photo’s height from the template’s height and divide by two. Make
the first guide’s position at this number and the second guide at the
template’s height minus that number. (For a 7-inch photo on a 10-inch template,
the guides are at 1.5 and 8.5).
Use the same position figure to create vertical guides for your
horizontal outer borders. If you have a 20-inch wide template and a 1.5
position figure, put the guides at 1.5 and 18.5.
Drag the first and last photos you are using onto the template.
Center them along their respective edges using the guides.
Place the remaining photos (your “middle photos”) on the
storyboard template between the “end photos” you placed first. You
can place more vertical guides to ensure the photos are evenly spaced. Use the
next step to find out how much space should be between each photo.
Take the combined width of your center photos, subtract that from
the width of template space between your end photos and divide that by the
number of middle photos plus one (divide by three if you have two middle
photos). The width of “white space” between each photo should be that
Print your storyboard and/or save it as a PSD file. Repeat all of
the above with another template if your storyboard requires multiple pages
PC3 Select method
Media and Relevant Scale for the Drawings
Types of drawing
Freehand drawings, paintings or sketches – These are good for
recording the general visual effect of a building or for making personal
statements about how you feel about a place. They can be of any size and in any
medium you like.
Scale drawings on graph paper
These are useful for
preliminary drawings, for recording measurements as you carry out a survey, or
for planning furniture layouts in rooms or buildings which have straight lines.
Curves or complicated shapes are difficult to manage. Drawings on graph paper
are not suitable for display purposes because the squares make it difficult to
“see” the actual drawing.
Scale drawings on plain paper
If you want to make an
accurate drawing, show interesting details or the colours or textures of
materials on a scale drawing, use plain paper. In this case, you will have to
use drawing equipment (below) to make your drawing.
If your school has a CAD package, use a computer to make scale
drawings based on your survey measurements.
To make scale drawings on
plain paper, you will need:
Drawing board Choose a material which lets you fix your
drawing in place with drawing pins or masking tape. It must be smooth and have
straight edges which are exactly parallel.
T-square This is
used for drawing horizontal lines which are absolutely level.
15 cm size 45″ and 30-60″ set-squares – These
are used for drawing vertical and inclined lines. You could use a protractor to
do this, but it is slower and more prone to move suddenly with a slight
movement of hand. Adjustable set-squares let you choose any angle you want, but
they are expensive. The small set-squares found in most sets of mathematical
instruments are too small for architectural drawings.
Scale This looks like a ruler, but the divisions
marked on it are in various standard proportions to actual distances – 1:10, 1:20, 1:50, 1:100 etc.
Well-sharpened pencils 2H lead pencils are good for scale
drawings. They make a clean, sharp line and don’t smudge easily.
A compass is sometimes useful, but most drawings can be
made without one.
Drawing pins or masking tape Use these to hold your
drawing in place while you work.
If the equipment listed above is unavailable in the school, you
can still make scale drawings which are suitable for display by using tracing
paper overlaid on graph paper. Tape the tracing paper to the graph paper and
tape the two to the table-top to prevent them from slipping about. If the
drawing has to be moved before it is complete, do not detach the tracing paper
from the graph paper – it will be almost impossible to re-position it
Types of paper – The kind of paper you need depends on the
purpose of the drawing. Preparing a set of scale drawings from the measurements
taken on a survey is not always easy, particularly if it is a large or
complicated building. It may take several tries to get it right. If you use
cartridge paper, you will have to do a lot of rubbing out and re-drawing, so
you can end up with a messy looking sheet. Tracing paper makes it easier. Lay a
clean sheet of tracing paper over your first drawing. Trace the bits you think
are correct, and then work on the next piece of the puzzle. Repeat these
processes until you are satisfied that the whole building is correctly drawn.
For this kind of rough work, it may be cheaper to buy a roll of detail paper. A
25-metre roll of A1 size costs about S12.00. If you want to display a drawing
made on tracing paper, pin it up with a sheet of white paper behind it. You can
colour tracing paper with pastels or coloured pencils, but put the colour on
the back of the sheet. It will show through gently on the front and can be
applied or removed without messing up the lines drawn on the right side. Don’t
paint on tracing paper; it goes bubbly. For painting, use a sheet of suitable
cartridge paper – one that hasn’t had too much rubbing out and re-drawing done
on it. If your drawing is complicated, do all your preparatory work on tracing
or detail paper. Then, when you are sure that you have it all worked out, make
a fresh drawing on the cartridge paper.
Drawing to scale Except when showing very small details,
architectural drawings do not represent objects at their full size. Buildings
are drawn much smaller than their true size, but with all the parts in the
correct proportion to each other, just as in the real building. This is called
drawing to scale.
The bigger the object or area really is, the smaller the scale of
the drawing has to be. Otherwise, it would not fit on one sheet of paper. For
example, the drawing of a single house might be at a scale of 1:50. This means
that 1 unit on the drawing equals 50 units on the real building. If you want to
draw a plan showing all of the houses in an estate, you might choose a scale of
1:200. The plan of an entire neighborhood might be at the even smaller scale of
1:1000. If you wanted to show how certain pieces of the building were
constructed, you might make a detail drawing of that part at 1:10 or even 1:5.
To make a drawing to scale, you need the actual measurements of the object and
a scale rule (see Drawing equipment, above) or graph paper which you have
marked off to the scale you want. Using a scale rule Suppose you want to draw a
1:50 plan of a room that is 5 metres long by 3.5 metres wide.
Take your scale rule and
select the side marked 1:50. Then, use the numbers on the scale to measure out
a rectangle 5 by 3.5.
Colour and texture on scale drawings
When you do a scale drawing, it is as though you were looking at
the building from a distance. This makes the building look smaller than it
really is. This imaginary distance also affects colours and textures. If you
look at a building from a distance, you may not be able to make out the joints
between the brickwork, and where one rooftile ends and the next begins. The
door handle and the letter box may just be dark shapes on the front door.
Something similar happens to colours. The farther away you move the mistier or
greyish they become, like mountains viewed from a distance, or houses and
fields seen from a plane. The amount and sharpness of detail you show, and the
brightness of colours on the drawings, depend on the scale of the drawing. You
cannot show a lot of detail on small-scale drawings. Bright colours which might
look fine on a 1:50 elevation of a house may look garish if they are used for
the same house shown at a scale of 1:200
amongst all the drawing in the sequences
is about creating a feeling of continuity from cell to cell, so that the viewer
doesn’t get pulled out of the story by strange changes in character, scenery or
Consistency is the key in creating
a storyboard that is easy to follow. Keep text, styles, characters, and scenery
in agreement. For example, each character and prop should be easily
recognizable as the same character/prop in every frame. If consistency is
achieved, the storyboard will be a great reference point for everyone involved
in the production.
in storyboarding means being sure to:
Keep your characters colors the same through the storyboard
Keep your texts’ font the same (Unless there is shouting or “noise effect”
Stay with the same style of scenery (If you are writing about Ancient
Egypt, you wouldn’t use a modern bedroom. This is where staying in a
category can come in handy)
Place your title or explanation text boxes in the same place in each
frame/cell (and keep them lined up using the Align tool or the gridlines)
Use the same items in a storyboard if shown in multiple cells (i.e.
don’t switch vacuums between one cell and another unless they are supposed
to be two different vacuums)